Semarang Lumpia and the History of Javanese-Chinese Cultural Acculturation
Lumpia is a typical dish from the city of Semarang. It’s no surprise that in every corner of this capital city of Central Java, we can easily find various shops selling lumpia.
The main ingredients of Semarang lumpia are bamboo shoots, mixed with shrimp and egg. Everything is wrapped in a lumpia wrapper, forming a long cylindrical shape. Most of the ingredients in the lumpia, such as bamboo shoots, shrimp, and scallions, are rich in nutritional value.
Semarang lumpia is best enjoyed with pickled cucumber, scallions, bird's eye chili, and a light drizzle of sauce. The flavor is dominated by a combination of sweet and savory, with a refreshing taste.
Semarang lumpia can be eaten either fresh or deep-fried. Both versions have their own distinct taste. One piece of Semarang lumpia is priced at 20,000 rupiahs.
The Acculturation of Javanese-Chinese Culture
Semarang Lumpia are rich in history and are one of the products of Javanese-Chinese cultural acculturation. From its name, Semarang lumpia come from the combination of the words 'lun', meaning roll (in Javanese), and 'pia', meaning cake (in Hokkien).
According to a thesis by Fiyani (2019), the early history of Semarang lumpia is quite unique, originating from a Chinese-Javanese couple who married in the 19th century.
It is said that Tjoa Thay Joe, a man from Fujian, China, lived in a Javanese village and became neighbors with Wasi, who would later become his wife. Both were small food vendors, but Wasi’s food was more popular and always sold out. This piqued Tjoa Thay Joe's curiosity, and he asked Wasi about it.
"It was revealed that there was an ingredient mix that caused the snacks sold by Tjoa Thay Joe to never sell," wrote Fiyani in her thesis.
After that, they frequently met and exchanged culinary ideas. This is what sparked their mutual affection, leading to their marriage in the 19th century. From that point on, lumpia was born as their new dish. The name "lumpia" was coined by Tjoa Thay Joe.
To this day, many lumpia shops in Semarang are owned by descendants of Tjoa Thay Joe and Wasi, such as Lumpia Gang Lombok, Lumpia Mataram, Lumpia Mbak Lien, and Lumpia Cik Me Me.
The Adaptive Lumpia
The city of Semarang, located on the northern coast of Java, holds a strategic position in the archipelago's trade routes. From the era of Hindu-Buddhist kingdoms to the 19th century, Semarang was frequently visited by traders from Asia and Europe.
The trading activity in Semarang was closely linked to the presence of the Semarang River, which flows directly into the Java Sea. In the past, the Semarang River was an important port and served as the main transportation route for various natural resources from Java, including spices.
Due to its diverse ethnic visitors, the people of Semarang developed into a multicultural society. This can be seen in the landscape of villages and settlements along the Semarang River, which still endure today. These include the Chinatown neighborhood located on the east side of the river, the European settlement [Old Town] to the north of Chinatown, the Malay village on both the eastern and western banks of the river, and the Javanese village at the meeting point of the Semarang River.
Among all the ethnic groups in Semarang, the Chinese community is one that has successfully adapted and continues to thrive to this day.